3 watches that all cost about the same thing are on my list and while they are different styles all are integrated-ish sports watches. I was set on a vc overseas but then I tried on a breguet marine in titanium and really liked the way it wore. And the moser streamline center seconds speaks to me in a totally different way. Let’s discuss!

Thank you to Fed and everyone else who put this site together. This Patek was 2-3K cheaper than anywhere else online.

Beautiful dial, I'm even having a hard time capturing how much it plays with the light:

I've been searching for a Paul Gerber. Not many out there. I found this, and am planning on buying it.

Fed - I think you have some experience with these watches. Would appreciate your opinion. Many thanks!

https://shop.benwatches.com/PAUL-GERBER-Zurich-420-XXX-Automobile-Car-Piece-Unique-1-1-Date-Titanium-42mm-Automatic-FULL-SET-2015-p788139792

Hi Everyone,

I'm going to be traveling next month to Australia/New Zealand. I was wondering if anyone knew of any good brands in either country that are worth looking at/potentially picking up. I've done a bit of research, but it doesn't really seem as if either country has a big watchmaking network, so I'd appreciate any tips you all may have. Thanks in advance.

Ralph

I recently picked up an MTM watch. Just want to say this thing is built to last - it's a beast.

They make really cool military watches at a low price ($550). I love mine so much I bought one for a buddy:

https://www.mtmwatch.com/products/black-hypertec-h-61-h61bgdnygnmtm

FWIW.

A Lange Söhne Saxonia Moonphase 384.039. Black and dial white gold case with box and papers. 2019 dated card. Price at $24,000.

Hey guys,

As my collection starts to grow I'm thinking about buying a automatic watch winding case for them. I see some pretty inexpensive ones by Dukin, some crazy expensive ones from Rapport London, and some really cheap ones on Alibaba. Thoughts? Totally unnecessary? Too douchy? Does anyone keep their watches in one?

I guess a bigger question is how do you guys store your collections? I'd really be able to look at mine in the morning (even though it's still pretty small) so it seemed like a winder case killed two birds with one stone.

Since Zelos is a possible contender for the FTW watch, and the Comet 39 model in particular, here's a review of the tantalum edition. I hope the other Zelos owners in the community can add their own experiences so we can get a better idea of the options to evaluate.

I've been fascinated with tantalum ever since finding out it's used in advanced Terminator endoskeletons. Basic endos used titanium, and tantalum's the evil twin. It's a different shade of grey, more gunmetal. Ti is surprisingly light, while Ta is surprisingly heavy at around the same density as 18k gold, double of steel. But Zelos doesn't make a Ta bracelet, which would make the heft much more noticeable than just comparing cases, so this gets stuck with a peculiarly underwhelming strap. While the design is interesting, possibly unique to this model, it unfortunately has a "patent leather" gloss to it like a cheap belt. Maybe it'll grow on me as it wears in, or it might just crack like vinyl upholstery left in the sun. Good thing Zelos has other options.

I enjoy how everything plays with light. The dial is large grain crystallized titanium, and the "flakes" go from bright to dark depending on angle, like the splotch at 12:30. The hands look matte black in some photos, but they're well polished and go specular when catching a highlight. The raised sapphire's polished rim overlaps the minute track like the receding distortion in the final ripple of a calming pond. The indexes are chunky appliques, but that lume shot is exaggerated, I cheated with a long exposure.

The center of the dial is made via CNC guilloche and anodized blue. This is an interesting middle ground between traditional methods (slow manual operation of a large antique cutting engine with a bladed tip like a burin or chisel, mechanically 'programmed' by cogs and levers like a spirograph) and more expedient processes (stamping a pattern only smushes the material to fit a mold, so edges are softer and rounded). By using a computer controlled milling bit (like the spinning tip of a power drill) to cut away material, CNC guilloche can achieve much of the same sharply defined edges as traditional machines. Zelos calls this specific pattern "Feather" and I personally find it less attractive than some of their other patterns. While the intricacy is evident in the zoom shot, at other distances, the sharpness devolves into a grittiness, like a cheap low-resolution laser engraving, to my eyes. Excuse the lint and smudges, the hands are pristine and I assume some of the variation in the anodization is from the underlying titanium grain.

The other macro zoom is of my favorite quirk. Most of the tantalum has a uniform bead-blasted surface texture. But that triangle facet is polished. Because it's only on that one outer slope of each lug, there's usually at least one panel glinting from an otherwise matte case. Aside from the visual appeal, there's a bit of mental satisfaction too. The tantalum version comes at a price bump over the steel ($2500 vs $2k), even more when you consider the loss of a bracelet. Ti and Ta are difficult to machine, so it's quite uncommon to find them polished. Zelos taking the time and resources to add this rare detail to a rare metal is acknowledgement that the premium isn't just spending up for the exotic material, but for additional refinement as well.

So, was it worth it? I can't speak for their steel watches on bracelet, but I'm very happy with this one. Everything is relative though, a heavy hitter swinging a six-figure bat would consider this toy money for a toy watch. But bang-for-buck is a diminishing curve, and I think Zelos is comfortably in a good-value sweet spot for its price range. It's not high horology, but still a fun way for me to check out new materials and new techniques in a well-rounded, good looking package.

(I wish I was more aware of this before jumping at the Christopher Ward C12 Loco, I was so excited for the movement but my expectations were wildly miscalibrated. They probably make fine $2k watches, but the $5k price of the Loco reflects the cost of making the unusual movement and amortizing its R&D, very little went to improving the rest of the watch, so the end product still feels $2k tier. Wagyu tartare between two slices of Wonder bread ain't fine dining. The dork in me is still satisfied owning an example of the movement, so I would've bought one used eventually anyway, but I'd've been less disappointed if someone first slapped me and explained that it's a $5k watch in a $2k package, not a $15k watch for $5k)

Hi,

I’m new to the community, so apologies if this has been asked. I understand grails are limited to two per member. I associate grail with a difficult to find watch. The two watches I’m actively looking to buy (Rolex Milgauss and Vacheron Constantin Overseas) are pretty obtainable (missed the recent overseas in the dealer market). Should I save my grail slots for watches that are harder to find? Thanks!

What is everyone wearing this week?

I wanted to check out some Sartory Billard's in the metal this weekend at the new Time and Tide showroom in Soho NYC. They are fabulous: although I wasnt impressed at all with the bracelet it was pretty subpar for the price.

I also had the absolute pleasure to play with the Famal Hut Bi-Axis tourb, just insane!!

Ended up purchasing a new Dennison Dual time Malachite as well, some cheap fun and works as a his and hers addition to the family collection. Looks wise, this up and coming brand absolutely rocks.

Some pics -

its Quartz, the dial is busy, its Plastic or something so what do I love it so much? Any other Endurance Pro lovers out there?

I have an opportunity locally to grab this at $6750. Two tone with champagne dial.

Wondering if this is a fair price. Watch condition is really nice.

Thanks

G

Hey Fed!

Love the community. Can we add a favorite to the dealer market? For me personally, I've had a number of other cash flow obligations lately (taxes, car purchases, etc) but once that clears out, some watch additions/upgrades are on the horizon and it'd be cool to have those dealer market favs easily accessible.

Cole

What are some good sites to buy watch tools?

what tools do y’all like?

I’m thinking about high quality hobby grade tools…. No 2 buck junk but also not 2 grand professional gear.

I like to size bracelets, swap straps, change batteries, stuff like that.

Hi all,

I’m heading to London next week and will have a few hours free on Thursday to wander around and look at watches.

Would love recommendations for any independents, microbrands, etc., worth seeing in person and any interesting watch shops or dealers that are a must visit.

Also curious if there is anything actually worth picking up locally from a price perspective. With VAT refund and no US import drama, are there any brands or models that end up meaningfully cheaper in the UK?

Appreciate any suggestions. Thank you!

Hey guys . . . quick little forum tech update.

Email notifications are now LIVE. There are three types of email notifications:

1. When your thread receives a reply

2. When your post receives a reply

3. When you receive a private message

By default, all members are opted-in. The settings to opt-out of receiving these emails are located in you user profile page and are toggled by a simple switch (just above the Find My Grail settings).

Also, we have changed the nested reply setting within threads so they are now visible by default and this improves legibility and the user experience overall.

Lastly, we are neck deep in beta testing the implementation of Rich Text replies, which will allow attachments to all reply post (think photos!) as well as links, videos, etc, etc. I will be announcing this ASAP, but rest assured progress has been made and it remains a priority.

Thanks for your patience, onwards and upwards!

You beat me by ~60 seconds....well done! Looking forward to seeing pics!

(bright side: you saved me $5k)

Fed, the watches in Dealer's Market have been so good. Appreciate seeing the new ones everyday!

Czapek 12460 from 2016 unworn 1 of 15 made. This is my grail peace because of the symbolism of the special edition and heritage. I found it for $34,000 in stainless. Any thoughts / advice?

Japan is moving up on my travel list. One benefit besides sumo, sushi, the people and bullet trains, would be watch shopping. Wondering if any members have a good story and whether the dollar-to-yen favorability was a real benefit, negotiating tips and if bringing it back through Customs was fee-punitive. My one experience with watches and Asia was a 1983 Taiwan trip with my then maniac-toy importer boss who had his tailor make me Saturday Night Fever shirts, his dumping me for his mistress, and a fake Rolex buying spree through a false door entry. I returned to NY wearing the watch on my forearm with its gold patina good for about six months. He also gave me a bonus to quit. Yeah, the days long gone.